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The Shaolin Temple & Denfgeng, China: not every destination can be great.

June 6, 2016November 12, 2017 By The Wandering Vegan
After arriving back in Beijing from DPRK, I was stoked to find my British friend from the train, J, still at the hostel when I returned. He was there for one more night, just like I would be, so it was good to see a familiar face and have someone to share all of my crazy stories with while they were fresh (and could include the appropriate hand gestures/facial expressions for my feelings).
For both lunch & dinner, we went to our noodle spot. For dinner, a British friend joined from my DPRK trip and an American girl who works for the tour company joined us. It was a bunch of fun sharing funny travel stories, laughing, and just hanging out with good company.
J & I packed and prepared to go separate ways the next day, and I was up super early to head to the Beijing West train station to head to Zhengzhou. This was a complete circus. First, I wanted to cash out my subway card & get the deposit refunded; I was bounced around to 4 different booths for this. Next, I went to the wrong spot to pick up my ticket at the train station, because the signs are impressively vague (when buying a ticket online, you get a confirmation code to use when picking up, and you have to pay extra if you pick it up at any other station).
Once I finally had my ticket and went through the security screening, there wasn’t much time left to wait. The express train to Zhengzhou was that—express! 2.5 hours later, I was in Zhengzhou at the East station, took the subway to the central station, got confused a little bit, and then found the bus station for a bus to Dengfeng.
Upon arrival, I experienced the MADDEST, CRAZIEST episode of hawks I’ve ever seen. I actually had to shove people out of the way to get off the bus, because everyone was trying to sell tours to the Shaolin Temple. Yes, that’s why I’m here, but, no, I don’t want your tour. Just let me off the bus. A guy actually grabbed my arm and tried to pull me toward his van. Nope. You just got a huge shove and a stern look. You didn’t get a customer.
After confusing a bunch of people at the taxi line (“Who’s this weird, tattooed guy who doesn’t speak Chinese?”) even though I had the address I needed written in Chinese, I finally showed up at my hostel. It was a rather hilarious day. It continued with the fact that the only person at the hostel who speaks English (a girl my age) wasn’t present, and her parents called her to talk to me on the phone for my check-in. That’s a new one.

I can honestly say that the Dengfeng Climb Youth Hostel has the most uncomfortable bed I’ve ever slept in. The dad from the hostel is also super annoying: he smokes inside and lurks over my shoulder constantly (including standing behind me and telling me in Chinese how to properly wash the dishes, every time I cook) and coming into my room drunk at 4:30am and yelling at some guy in my dorm room. It’s cheap, but the hostel sucks. They also refuse to give you a key to the outside door (only to your room), so I got locked out for an hour at one point. Cool.

Anywho, I came here for one reason: the famous Shaolin Temple. The night of my arrival, I coordinated with a young, Chinese guy to go there together the next morning and hike over the mountain to get to the temple. We set up a taxi through the hostel for the following morning, since buses only run to the main entrance. If you hike, you need to do it this way, or you will end in the afternoon at the “no buses” side, and you’re stuck.

The hike started with probably 1,000 steps going upward. This isn’t a joke. My thighs and butt were burning. After this, it was mostly a well-developed stone path with railings around the edges of the mountain, including some really awesome views. There aren’t very good signs, so I was glad I had someone who spoke Chinese to decipher the minuscule signage and ask other people for directions. I would’ve made wrong turns on my own, that’s for sure.

After 3-3.5 hours, we arrived at the bottom of the mountain on the other side and starting seeing huge numbers of tourists; we knew we were close to the temple. We followed a detour toward the cave where Dharma supposedly lived for 9 years, until we saw the steps up the side of the mountain and said, “Forget it.”

The Shaolin Temple: YAWN. I had expected so much more, due to its famed history, but it was just another temple. I think I’ve seen better. No, I KNOW I’ve seen much better. I was very underwhelmed. The monk playing games on his iPhone made me laugh, though.

We stuck around for one of the Kung Fu performances in the afternoon, which was cool, but not mind-boggling, and then took the bus back to the hostel. I couldn’t believe that my main reason for coming to the area had been so lackluster. I was glad that I did the hike, because the day would’ve really been a joke without it.

It’s also no secret that I am not a fan of religions, but I had always hated Buddhism a little less than most others, because it encourages people to not eat meat and be peaceful. That free pass is gone, because the monks at the Shaolin Temple are allowed to eat meat now. I couldn’t believe that I not only saw monks eating meat but that stores inside the temple complex were allowed to sell meat. This was always a huge deal for Buddhists (look at the signs at most temples), but I guess they’ve tried to modernize. Sad.

However, Dengfeng & the Shaolin area had some of the BEST bad English shirts I’ve seen on this trip. “Deds not words.” “Goodbye & Good Ridoance.” “I love Mickay Mouse.”
That was a Saturday. On Sunday, I had planned to hike a nearby mountain that is one of the five sacred mountains of China, but serious thunderstorms scrapped that plan, and they continued into Monday, killing my plan for a day trip to Luoyang to see the tombs and wall carvings (since there’s a lot of outdoor walking). I spent a lot of time in the hostel being annoyed by the dad character and realized I should’ve come to Dengfeng, seen the temple, and then gotten out. Lesson learned.

I cooked all of my meals at the hostel, and the parents nagged me about something every time I was in the kitchen (in Chinese, which I obviously didn’t understand). There’s also only 1 bathroom for the whole hostel, so I was pretty annoyed and counting down the hours until I left.
My last night, I finally got a non-Chinese compatriot at the hostel. This was exciting, because everyone else spoke only Chinese (the guy I hiked with had left as soon as we returned to the hostel), which added to my frustrations. This Colombian guy totally raised my spirits, and we talked about how annoyed I had been here—in Spanish, of course, to make sure no one understood. I told him how I felt about the hostel and the area, and it’s up to him now.
I did manage to find some good coffee (not the instant stuff served everywhere) with the Colombian guy, which is ironic, then we went to bed. I woke up a bunch of times to check the clock, hoping it was time to get up and leave this place.
Goodbye, Dengfeng. The Shaolin Temple was better as a “want to see” than a “thing I’ve seen,” and your bus station bathroom was the dirtiest place I’ve ever set foot.

Next: Xi’an & the Terra Cotta Warriors.
This entry was posted in asia, china, dengfeng, zhengzhou

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About Author The Wandering Vegan ryan@wanderingvegan.net

My name is Ryan.

I caught the travel bug at a young age, and here are the tales of my wanderlust, surprise vegan food finds, and adventures across the planet.

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Recent Comments

  • The Wandering Vegan:

    Great question! Check this link from google maps - https://goo.gl/maps/58FCQVD2bWG2 I
  • Aarti:

    Do you have the route you took to go from
  • weezexchristina:

    Hong Kong is nothing like Dubai!!!
  • The Wandering Vegan:

    Yeah, I should've gotten out of there to find somewhere
  • weezexchristina:

    Sounds like you didn't get out of the hustle and

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