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The bumpy-yet-scenic train from Pyin Oo Lwin to Hsipaw and a major catastrophe

August 2, 2016November 12, 2017 By The Wandering Vegan
When I asked a friend of mine, who’d been to Myanmar earlier this year, about things to see & do, the train from Pyin Oo Lwin to Hsipaw was at the top of her list.

I arrived in Pyin Oo Lwin after a mega journey and checked into the only listing in town on hostelworld.com. It was clearly an old guest house/hotel that had been converted into somewhat of a hostel by adding extra beds into normal hotel rooms. No worries.

There were some people sitting around outside the check-in area in the afternoon, so I asked if any of them had done the train / had any advice. The hostel offered rides to the train station in the morning, and some of the people outside had arrived by train coming the other direction. They recommended sitting in “upper class,” because the seats are bigger, more comfortable, and there’s a fan. “Lower class” tickets are $1.50 US. “Upper class” costs $2.30 US. That’s for a 7-hour train ride! Incredible.

For dinner, I ate at the hostel restaurant with the group from outside, which included a German girl, a Dutch girl, a Kiwi guy, and an Irish guy. The food was super cheap, and they had vegan milkshakes for $1.20 US! OF COURSE, I got one.

I signed up for the ride to the train station the next morning, which included a South Korean guy from my room, a couple from Spain, and the German girl. Goodnight, first day in Myanmar!

In the morning, we got in the back of a pickup truck modified to have some benches in the back and rode a short way to the train station. Sure enough, $2.30 for the ticket to Hsipaw. I was cracking up.

I killed some time taking pictures outside the train station, practicing my minimal German and my budding Spanish.

Can we take a minute to observe that there’s a different bathroom for foreigners?

The train station was quaint, and you definitely got the impression that its halcyon days were gone.

But the police are apparently very polite.
When the train arrived, we had to wait for them to add another car for “upper class,” and we were assigned seats so that I was sitting in a single seat to the left of the aisle, with the German girl directly behind me, and then the Spanish couple in the row behind her, but on the side with 2 seats.
I was pretty surprised that they had fold-out tray tables from inside the arm rest! This proved to be my undoing, though. I decided to do some work while on the train. After less than 45 of the journey, we hit a huge bump, my suitcase fell off the luggage rack overhead, and landed right on my laptop, tumbling off the tray table and onto the floor together.
The entire train car went silent.
When I picked it up, there was a giant crack through the screen, and my heart was beating really fast. I need this thing for work…
I put the laptop away and tried to focus on enjoying the train ride, knowing that everything was now up in the air, that I was heading away from the nearest major city/major airport, in case I needed to get somewhere else for an Apple repair shop.
At one of the stops, I got off and bought some pineapple for about 30 cents, a giant bowl of noodles & vegetables for 40 cents, and a Coke for 30 cents. Total: $1. Unbelievable.
The Spanish couple tried to ask about my laptop at the stop, and I basically said, “Let’s not talk about it.” It was nice of them, but there’s nothing I could do while on a train, and I didn’t want to ruin the rest of the journey.
R, the German girl, managed to get some phone signal while we were in the middle of nowhere, and she looked up Apple’s repair website. The bad news was that there are no authorized repair facilities in all of Myanmar. I could risk an off-license repair facility, meaning that Apple would never help me with the smallest increment of tech support ever again (if it’s even fixable) or needed to exit Myanmar to go to Thailand or Singapore or China.
The remainder of the journey, including the bridge crossing, was great, and I focused on just enjoying it.
When we arrived in Hsipaw, I said goodbye to everyone and walked straight to the bus station. Unfortunately, I needed to get back to Mandalay to have options for sorting out my laptop, and I needed to go ASAP.
This is the part where my often low opinion of people was momentarily lifted. While I was walking to the bus station, the Spanish couple passed me in a taxi to their hotel, made the driver pull over, and asked if I need a ride somewhere. I was literally in view of the bus station by then, so I declined, but it was really nice.
After getting to the bus station and booking the next available bus to Mandalay (7:30pm night bus, currently 3pm), I started to seek out a place with wifi, so I could look up what to do. As I was walking down the street, I ran into R, the German girl, checking into a hotel. I told her that I was leaving in 4.5 hours, and she said that we could hang out until then, if I wanted. Over the next few hours, I really got the impression that she felt bad for me and wanted to try to redeem my day to end on a better note.
I used the wifi on my phone, while she checked in, and messaged some friends to try to sort out some things I needed. I needed a cheap flight out of Myanmar, since I couldn’t get my laptop fixed there. Wherever I was going, I needed a cheap place to stay, when I got there. I found a cheap flight to Singapore and remembered that my friend O, whom I’d met trekking in Sumatra, had just moved there, so that seemed like a good option. I messaged her about visiting, asked for a few favors, and then felt like a jerk when I realized that she was out to her birthday dinner with her parents. Oops.
I also got my friend R, who I’d seen recently in Laos, to book my plane ticket and transferred the money to her online later. O didn’t have a place to live in Singapore yet, so she booked a first night at a hostel for me.
At this point, R was ready to hang out, so I left my bags there to walk around for a few hours.
We headed north, out of town, and saw the teak monastery and the wooden Buddha statue. Across the road, we went to a more modern monastery, where there was a teaching going on. R offered to stand outside while I took a quick picture, since she was wearing a tank-top, which is not allowed in temples. The people outside were so nice that they basically pushed her in the door to take pictures with me, and I found her sitting in the “women’s section” listening to the teachings. I didn’t realize it was the women’s section, sat down to join her, and everyone started laughing. Good times.
Next thing we knew, we were being served food, and we ate what we felt was a polite amount of it. We even followed the normative gender roles for Myanmar, with R serving me tea and me eating first. After eating a decent amount, we put about $1 in the tip jar and went on our way, with big smiles and waves from everyone on our way out.
Walking back into town, we stopped at a restaurant near R’s hotel, had a big dinner before my trip, and then collected my bags. R walked with me to the bus station to get some info for a later trip she wanted to take, and then even sat with me, talking until the bus arrived. She felt bad and even apologized for not seeing the bag falling and saving my laptop. It was sweet, even though it wasn’t her fault and couldn’t have been saved, in all likelihood.
It was funny that R stayed until the bus came, because there was definitely the impression (I think it was mutual) that we weren’t going to keep in touch. I think she had a mixed feeling of wanting to help my day be less crappy and also her own guilt that maybe she could’ve done something. The first was really nice, and the second was untrue but seemed to plague her conscience. With a hug and a wave, I got on the bus and took off into the night, to arrive in Mandalay at 3:30am, back where I’d never wanted to spend any time in the first place.
Next post: voyage to Singpore, country # 84.
This entry was posted in asia, burma, hsipaw, myanmar, pyin oo lwin, pyin u lwin

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  Multi-lingual journey of planes, trains & automobiles to Myanmar
Return to Mandalay en route to Singapore for Mactastrophe 2016  

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About Author The Wandering Vegan ryan@wanderingvegan.net

My name is Ryan.

I caught the travel bug at a young age, and here are the tales of my wanderlust, surprise vegan food finds, and adventures across the planet.

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Recent Comments

  • The Wandering Vegan:

    Great question! Check this link from google maps - https://goo.gl/maps/58FCQVD2bWG2 I
  • Aarti:

    Do you have the route you took to go from
  • weezexchristina:

    Hong Kong is nothing like Dubai!!!
  • The Wandering Vegan:

    Yeah, I should've gotten out of there to find somewhere
  • weezexchristina:

    Sounds like you didn't get out of the hustle and

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